A Free Man (and Woman) in Paris, Unfettered and Alive . . .

Saturday, November 25, 2006

So this was our last full day in Paris; and I still had not done any shopping yet. All I had bought so far were two umbrellas from Versailles. What was wrong with me??????

So today was to change all of that. First, why Mr. Bean was still sleeping, I was intending to go to a market nearby to the Hotel - President Wilson Market, Avenue du Pdt Wilson between rue Debrousse and Place d’Iena, Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 2.30 p.m., Saturday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Well, I walked down Avenue du President Wilson for what seemed like forever with no success. So shopping attempt failed.

Frustrated, I grabbed some breakfast of pain au chocolat and cafe au lait and returned to the room. We were going to go to the Catacombs that morning and then to Montmartre. Mr. Bean, however, was very sweet and decided we didn’t need to go to the Catacombs so we could have more time in Montmartre to shop as I really wanted to get to it.

So, we took the metro over the Montmartre and started our walk. I used Frommers’ book Most Memorable Walks of Paris to get around; and I found it very helpful. First, though, we wanted to go to the Montmartre Cemetary for several reasons. First, Mr. Bean LOVES cemetaries. He likes reading the history, seeing the graves, it’s just a thing for him. For me, I wanted to see Degas’ grave as he is my favorite artist – I love his work. Third, we heard a lot of cats live there. We love cats so we wanted to see them.

On the way there, of course, we had to go through the Red Light District and see Moulin Rouge, Le Chat Noir, and all of the fun shops. We got COUPLE PICTURE NO. 6 in front of the Moulin Rouge.

The Cemetary itself is very interesting as a good portion of it is under a bridge. They simply built several roads above the cemetary instead of around it. Also, the cemetary was on a mulitude of levels. It was very peaceful and quiet. The cats were all very cute and looked well fed – I don’t know where they got the food from but they looked fine. We saw a wide variety of grave markers that were not only interesting ; but in the case of many fascinating in the way they were built.

The one problem I had though was locating Degas’ grave. We looked forever and simply could not find it. Well, I really shouldn’t say that because it is a funny story. We did see one grave that said "Famille de Gas". Mr. Bean and I, in our childish way, got a good laugh out of it. After our trip, however, we found out by looking on line that this was Degas’ grave ! I can’t believe I let childish jokes get in the way of me really looking at the grave – I guess we never grow up.

After spending about an hour in the cemetary, we continued on the tour of Montmartre pursuant to the book. I must admit, however, that both Mr. Bean and I got a little bored with looking at artist’s old lofts from the outside and kind of hurried through that part. We then got to what I had been waiting for – the shops ! I hadn’t shopped yet on the trip which is very unlike me so I started here. I got french kitchen items, pictures and more.

Then, when we got to Place du Tertre – the town square where all of the artists are located, Mr. Bean decided he wanted a charcoal portrait drawn of me. I wasn’t too thrilled with idea because (1) I don’t like pictures of myself ; and (2) they wanted way too much money (80 E). Finally, I agreed because Mr. Bean wanted the portrait in his office so I didn’t have to see it ; and one man agreed to do it for 40 E. The funny thing is then we spent $100 to have it matted and framed back home. Anyway, this guy looked like the consummate starving artist – gray haired, in his 50’s, raggedy clothes, the works. It took about 30-40 minutes to do ; and boy was there a crowd around me – something I just LOVED (sarcasm dripping here). Two funny things – although good, I thought it looked NOTHING like me but Mr. Bean did and loved it. Second, I was wearing a turtleneck that day – the artist decided he didn’t like me in that so he drew a lower cut top. So yes, we did the ultimate tourist trap thing there – sorry to the true travelers who are cringing now !

After the portrait was complete, we decided we were hungry. And this is when I made the worst meal blunder of the trip and was so disappointed. Mr. Bean just wanted a crepe but Frommer’s said I had to go to La Crémaillère 1900, 15 place du Tertre, which is allegedly the best restaurant in the square. Well, we disagree wholeheartedly. The service was bad and the food worse. First, we were told to seat ourselves so we went to the courtyard in the back. Although staff saw us, no one came to get our order. We were then told to move inside because it was too windy. So we did and it still took FOREVER to have someone come. We ordered from the prix fix menu there. I had foie gras, mussels in a cream sauce and was supposed to have dessert. Mr. Bean had escargot and the worse steak I had ever seen in my life- it had more fat than meat. And it was burnt – which shocked me especially for France. And when we complained about the steak, the waiter said that was what we got for ordering that – I kid you not. And the service was SOOO SLOW that we didn’t even have our desserts. So I would tell everyone do not go there and I really wish we had had just a lunch crepe.

After our miserable lunch, we went to Sacre Couer. We had been before so it was just a quick stop. During that stop, however, I got yelled at and I mean yelled at by a security guard for taking pictures even though I wasn’t using my flash. I think they don’t allow pictures in there because they want you to buy there pictures. Mr. Bean was ticked at them for their money hungry ways in wanting money for pictures that he gave a big thumbs down to the church which you can see in this picture to the right.

After Sacre Couer, we walked down the hill and went to the garment area where I bought some tablecloths from Provence which I love. We then headed back to the hotel.

On the way back to the hotel, we decided to go get more pictures at the Eiffel Tower - to add to the couple pictures. Thankfully, a nice woman from Australia was willing to take our picture.

We were going to take a rest, but then Mr. Bean decided at 4 p.m that he wanted to see Hotel des Invalides and Napolean’s grave. So, as the facility closed at 5 p.m, we had to hurry. We rushed on the metro and got there at 4:30 p.m. Although I had been there 13 years earlier, I couldn’t remember where everything was, so we were running around trying to find where to go into to see everything. And it was funny because we weren’t the only ones to be doing that. I felt like we were in Amazing Race (a show I would love to be on), trying to find the next clue. We finally found the correct area and went inside. I was sorry that we didn’t have time to get audio tapes; but it was nice to use our museum pass for one last time. There was also an interesting exhibit of Napolean’s true items, even including one of his uniforms and his sword. I truly enjoyed the exhibit. Then Mr. Bean was pleased because they had a huge bookstore so he was able to get a lot of books on French history.

Afterwards, we went over to the Eiffel Tower to go to the top. We got there at about 6 p.m. and got in line. The line at the bottom took about an hour to go through to get tickets. We decided to go to the very top which was 11 E pp. After buying tickets, it took another half an hour to get to the second floor where we got directly in line for the third and top floor. I’m afraid of heights; so during all of this wait, I was very nervous. I promised Mr. Bean, however, that I would stay on top with him as long as he wanted because last time, I made him leave quickly because I was so scared and he jokingly has never let me forget it. And back then, it only took about 20 minutes total to get to the top because it was right after 9/11. This time, it took another 45 minutes in line on the second floor to get the third.

When we finally got to the third, it was PACKED. I was trying not to think too hard about how many people were up there. And I was driving Mr. Bean crazy again because of taking so long to take pictures. He actually got angry with me because he said he wanted to be romantic and I was too busy taking pictures. He had every right to be upset, I just get in this zone of having to have the "Bean" picture.

Funnily enough, the crowds, which were pushing and shoving, got Mr. Bean so angry that, after ten minutes on top, he had had enough and wanted to go down – so this time it was his fault we were so quick! So it took about 20 minutes in line to get back to the second floor. I quickly bought some Eiffel Tower ornaments in the gift store on the second floor and then another ten minutes in line to get to the bottom. We got to the bottom at 9 p.m. So yep, three hours there for 10 minutes on top. Now it’s my turn to never let him live it down.

Afterwards, Mr. Bean was grumpy so we walked back to the hotel from the Eiffel Tower on what was a beautiful night, and I let him go back to the room while I got us a late dinner. I got some more lovely sandwiches and desserts with our lovely Orangina, and we watched our last night of fun French TV.